Permanent Waving – Chemical Waving

Permanent waving – chemical waving: A method of giving a lasting curl and/or wave to the hair by using chemicals that change the structure of the hair.

Overview: This chapter will provide you with all the methods of permanent waving, cold wave chemistry, and safety measures.

Behavioral objectives-student goals: After completion of this chapter, and after instruction, study and practice, you will be able to perform and demonstrate competency in permanent waving by demonstrating the complete cold wave procedure for both normal and tinted hair, test curl interpretation, instant and splash neutralizing methods, a body wave, curl control wave, spiral winding (flat, half and full twist), an end permanent and the piggyback double-rod method of wrapping hair. You will also be able to demonstrate competency by identifying, explaining, and/or listing cold wave chemistry, acid perm chemistry, rod sizes, hair density, porosity and elasticity, types of cold wave lotions and neutralizers, curl control wave, instrument-controlled processing time, safety measures, permanent wave procedures, curl reduction, Perm-A-Curl, and perming frosted hair.

The permanent wave was invented by Charles Nessler in 1905, and he gave the first public demonstration in London in 1906. However, perming did not become popular until 1912. The hair was wrapped with tension on a spiral perm rod from the scalp to the hair ends. The permanent wave machine supplied the required heat with tube-like heaters that were attached to the machine with long, adjustable electric wires. Each heater contained a heating element capable of supplying more than 212 degrees of heat. The tubes were placed over the rods in order to connect the patient to the machine during the process period.

Late in 1930, the croquignole method of wrapping hair was introduced. This method involved wrapping the hair from the ends to the scalp. The heat was supplied with clamp-like heaters that attached the patron to the machine.

In 1931, the preheat method of perming was made available. The procedure and process were the same as the other perms except that the patron was not connected to the machine at any time. The machine was a table top model that preheated the wireless clamp-like heaters before they were placed over each individual rod. A moist protective pad was used with all these machine perms in order to keep the hair from drying while it was being processed with heat.

Machineless permanent waves were created in 1932 by Dr. Ralph L. Evans, Jr. and Dr. Everett G. McDonough. The permanent wave method required no wires or electricity. The heat was supplied by small flexible pads containing an exothermic chemical mixture which provided each pad with 212 degrees of controlled heat.

The cold wave method of permanent waving came into general use in 1940. The term cold wave is a misnomer. A more descriptive phrase for the cold wave method is the chemical method of permanent waving. The manufacturers chose to use the name cold wave in order to differentiate it from permanent waving procedures that involve the application of heat.

Although, the cold wave perming process does not require electrical or chemical heat, it uses the normal body temperature of 98.6 degrees and normal room temperature. Lower than normal temperature increase the processing time. Higher than normal body temperature decreases it. If the room temperature is cooler than normal because of air conditioning, a plastic or paper covering should be placed over the head during the processing time.

Chemicals (ammonium thioglycolate) are used to re-form the hair to the shape of the rod. The hair is wrapped without tension and other chemicals (neutralizer) are used to re-form and rebind the hair into its new shape. Cold wave lotions are highly alkaline.

Acid pH perming was introduced in 1970, but did not become popular until 1973. Acid balanced and acid pH wave lotions require some form of heat other than body heat in order to reform the hair into a new shape. The hair is wrapped with tension. The pH of cold wave lotions ranges from about 8.5 to 9.5, but the pH of acid balance perm lotions range from 7.5 to 8.2 and acid pH lotions have a value of u to 6.9. Both cold wave and acid wave lotions contain the same thioglycolate base. The ammonia content of acid balanced waving lotions is far below that of cold wave lotions. This is why these waving lotions must be activated with heat.

Neutralizing methods, techniques, and procedures have not changed much over the years. Although on the rod neutralizing was introduced in 1952, the original splash method of soaking wrapped hair at the shampoo basin is still in the best method for neutralizing long hair. Neutralizing is a part of perming hair that must be regarded as just as important as any other step in the permanent wave procedure.

Sanitary and safety precautions for permanent waving-chemical waving

• The foundation of a permanent wave is the careful reshaping of the hair.
• Always used gloves to protect you hands from irritation.
• Apply protective cream around the hairline and neck. Cover them with a strip of absorbent cotton.
• Avoid having waving lotion come in contact with the scalp. This will prevent skin irritation.
• Wipe up any lotion that drips on the floor. This will prevent accidents.
• Remove and replace cotton strips that become soaked with wave lotion.
• Examine the hair and scalp before beginning a perm.
• Do not brush the scalp area before a permanent wave.
• Change the towel or protective covering around the patron’s neck when it becomes wet.
• Remove the rods carefully in order to prevent the hair and scalp from suffering undesirable reactions.

The most important aspects of disinfection are the removal of foreign matter (loose hair, dandruff, etc.) and a good scrubbing of the instrument (s) and hands with soap and warm water followed by a thorough rinsing. Instruments must be totally immersed in 70% isopropyl alcohol or other E.P.A. approved disinfectant for a minimum of 10 minutes, then wiped dry before use. These procedures should also be used before disinfecting implements prior to storage for reuse.